The water was white. The waves we diagonal. They were crashing left right and center. Dumping from the right to left, leaving us, and our surfboards stuck in the middle with nothing but white water crashing down on us. Our only opportunity was to duck dive, and keep duck diving.
So when in doubt, we just go swimming. Only to keep duck diving under the choppy conditions without a surfboard (a lot easier mind) but wish the conditions eased off! Made us a nice clean surf, a lot more fun, a lot less white and a bit more green. But we can only use what big man in the sky gives us.
Can you see what is it yet?
Yes, that’s right. More white water. Swimming in a sea of foam, feeling the bubbles from the white water crashing over you as you dive into the green ocean.
The waves keep crashing, but five of us go out to swim and battle the dreading white water. Surprisingly we all laugh, jump, dive, and wade through the water having a whale of a time! (Excuse the pun).
At the beach life is different. Time doesn’t move hour to hour, but mood to moment. We live by the currents, plan by the tides, and follow the sun.
To me, the sea is my home. Where I feel like I belong. Where I feel like no one is judging me, no one is talking about things that don’t matter. Time passes by slowly, time almost pauses for a moment when you sit out back and wait for a wave to start forming.
The time’s here. Not yesterday but that moment. That moment where the perfect wave begins to form. You turn your board around, breathe deeply, then you begin to paddle. Paddle as strong as your arms will let you. Because nothing will stop you from catching this wave! Whether it’s small or big, the glassy surface, the perfect break. You see this wave and think to yourself:
You look to your left, check the wave is still yours for the taking. You look to your right, make sure no one will steal your wave (manners first). And then you look straight on, paddle your hardest and then drop! Before you know it you drop. Your on the wave! Then it’s easy sailing from there. You do your bottom turn, move on to a cutback if you want, pump a little on the wave to gain some speed. Or you can simply cruise it and watch the world go by. Beautiful.
That moment, so calm, so pure, so unforgettable. It’s that moment that get’s you hooked! Not just for a moment, but for the rest of your life!
My trip so far..
Sadly the whole thing is coming to a close now, coming home on Thursday the countdown begins days become quicker and start to get darker earlier. I have met some wonderful people while I have been travelling independently! All of whom I will stay in touch and hope have amazing times as they continue to travel or go back home to continue studying and working.
Me on the other hand. I’ll be going back home to carry on working, save up some money and then come April I have some big plans that could change the rest of my life, for better or for worse. But let’s stay positive, of course it’s gonna change for the best! Why on earth wouldn’t it!